HER CANDIES CAN MAKE YOU LOVE

HER CANDIES CAN MAKE YOU LOVE

Her grandmother and her mother could transform the knowledge of the city into pieces than sweeten a day, and remind you where you are, or you would like to be. Once children of Cajamarca were enthusiastic about acuñas, peanut turron, camotillo, many of them might still be.

When we were talking at her store, a lady stopped by and buyed “tapitas”, kind of a sweet milk bar. Was it only for her? for her family? For her kids? Could we lose our traditional candies, our culinary heritage? Can we negligently kill it? Like when you have a beautiful plant at home but Oops! you forgot to water it.

Martha is a living book and she is a character in them. Like in the book “Dulces y licores tradicionales de Cajamarca” by Marcela Olivas. She and now her family are part of the story of Cajamarca. Martha Villanueva receives you with a soft voice and maternal gestures. What I perceive as a sweet person, for her kind words and magic hands. Their candies can make you love her city.

wp 7 sra martha

SUS DULCES PUEDEN HACER QUE AMES

Su abuela y su madre podrían transformar el conocimiento de la ciudad en piezas que endulzaban el día, y te recordaban dónde estás, o donde te gustaría estar. Alguna vez los niños de Cajamarca se entusiasmaban con las acuñas, el turrón de maní y el camotillo; muchos de ellos tal vez aun lo hagan.

Cuando estábamos conversando en su dulceria, llego una clienta y compró “tapitas”, una especie de barra dulce de leche. ¿era solo por ella? ¿para su familia? ¿para sus hijos? ¿Podríamos perder nuestros dulces tradicionales, nuestra herencia culinaria? ¿Podriamos matarla negligentemente? Como cuando tienes una hermosa planta en casa pero ¡Vaya! te olvidaste de regarla.

Martha Villanueva es un libro viviente y tambien es un personaje en ellos. Como en el libro “Dulces y licores tradicionales de Cajamarca” de Marcela Olivas. Ella y ahora su familia son parte de la historia de Cajamarca. La señora Martha te recibe con una voz suave y gestos maternales. Lo que percibo como una persona dulce, por sus amables palabras y manos mágicas. Sus dulces pueden hacerte amar su ciudad.

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A SIMPLE HERB

A SIMPLE HERB

I grew up drinking chamomile and Lemmon grass infusion. We might also take lemon balm, and muña to drink as an infusion, or boldo and Horsetail herb to flavor cebada drink. My mother uses the leaves of figs or mint to flavor the caramel sauce of some particular desserts.

My mother often uses to cook: huacatay, spearmint, basil, parsley, culantro (eryngium) and oregano. We added rosemary or thyme for some sauces and Chincho for some soups.

When I was a child there was ruda in my house as part of good energy superstitions. I learned that llanten compresses were for inflammation; valerian to help sleep and aloe to eat.

So, I was naively proud of my knowledge of plants to drink, cook and to relieve.  I was in a  Celendin restaurant and felt the lovely fresh frangance of some herbs that were going to be use to spice. I asked:

Is it muña (Andean mint) ? No – … Oh, is it lemon balm? – No

-No?

– It´s rosemary

What do you mean rosemary? I couln´t be rosemary, I know rosemary- I thought. My ego learned a fresh herb can be so strong and delightful you might not even recognize it.

The next day in Cajamarca downtown I went to have ice cream. I enjoyed a nice rosemary ice cream and I learned am not an example of a Peruvian foodie. I just learned food must be took seriously, not myself.

wp6 helado firma

 

UNA SIMPLE HIERBA

Crecí bebiendo infusiones de manzanilla o hierba luisa. También tomamos toronjil y muña para beber como infusión; o boldo y de cola de caballo para darle sabor a la bebida cebada. Mi madre usa las hojas de higos o menta para dar sabor a la salsa de caramelo de algunos postres en particular.
Mi madre suele cocinar con: huacatay, hierba buena, albahaca, perejil, culantro (eryngium) y orégano. Agregamos romero o tomillo para algunos aderezos y Chincho para algunas sopas.

Cuando era niña había ruda en mi casa como superstición para la buena suerte y energía. Aprendí que las compresas de llanten eran para la inflamación; valeriana para ayudar a dormir, y el aloe para comer.

Entonces, estaba ingenuamente orgullosa de mi conocimiento de las plantas para beber, cocinar y aliviar. Estaba en un restaurante Celendin y sentí la encantadora y fresca frangancia de unas hierbas que iban a ser utilizada para condimentar. Yo pregunté:

– ¿Es muña (menta andina)?

-No

-Oh, ¿es toronjil?

– No
-¿No?
– Es romero
¿Qué quieres decir con romero? No puede ser romero, yo conozco el romero, pensé. Mi ego aprendió que una hierba fresca puede ser tan fuerte y deliciosa que quizás ni siquiera la reconozcas.
Al día siguiente en el centro de Cajamarca fui a tomar un helado. Disfruté un buen helado de romero y aprendí que no soy un ejemplo de un peruano amante de la comida (comidista). Aprendí que la comida debe ser tomada en serio, no yo.

 

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Video 1: Por que comer en Cajamarca y Celendin

Tus palabras, tus emociones, tu risa, lo bueno, lo malo no se olvida. Con cada experiencia, cada fragancia y cada sabor te llevas la ciudad en tu corazon.

Son 2 videos de Cajamarca. En este primer video: 1 dia en Cajamarca y en Celendin, para almuerzos y compras de productos y dulces típicos. Dia 2 en Celendin almuezo y chocolates.

Video 1: Por que comer en Cajamarca y Celendin

IG, Youtube: @bonitofoodtravel  Twitter:  @CyntiaElviaTiti  Click y comparte:

 

Mini ft5com

 

 

Every word, every emotion, the laughts, the good and the bad will not be forgotten. With  every experience, every smell and every flavors you will take the city in your heart.

Video 1: Why to eat in Cajamarca y Celendin

There are 2 food tours from Cajamarca. In this 1st video: Day 1, in Cajamarca downtown, for lunch and food shopping. Day 2: Celendin, 2 hours from Cajamarca, for lunch and Chocolate.

IG, Youtube: @bonitofoodtravel  Twitter:  @CyntiaElviaTiti  Like and share :

mini ft5 food

 

 

 

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THE TRIP COULD BE T.C.

The trip could be journalistic research; a confirmation of what sources says. I might find the places of my list, I might try the food I planned. It should be, it might be. The true is everything might be just as planned or . . . better. Globalization has change the way we think, we eat and we are. Each city in Peru has a different offer you can find easily. The first time I visit a city in my country I would prefer to try local specialities; in Peru in every city that makes a surprising list.

Once in Celendin I arrived late for lunch and coun´t find the whole regional offer. I was thinking of Caldo Verde, Cuy, quesillo con miel, barras de manjar blanco . . . The local dish I found was trout, and I try a little Tallarin Saltado. TS is an iconic Peruvian dish, Peruvian Chinese food. If you are not that curious about regional food in Peru or arrive late as me, try it. You won’t be disappointed.

 

EL VIAJE PODRÍA SER T.S.

El viaje podría ser investigación periodística; una confirmación de lo que dicen las fuentes. Podría encontrar los lugares de mi lista, podría probar la comida que planeé. Debería ser, podría ser. La verdad es que todo podría ser tal como estaba planeado o. . . mejor. La globalización ha cambiado la forma en que pensamos, comemos y somos. Cada ciudad en Perú tiene una oferta diferente que se puede encontrar fácilmente. La primera vez que visito una ciudad en mi país preferiría probar las especialidades locales; en Perú en cada ciudad eso significa una lista sorprendente.

Una vez en Celendin llegué tarde para almorzar y no encontré toda la oferta regional. Estaba pensando en Caldo Verde, Cuy, quesillo con miel, barras de manjar blanco (dulce de leche). . . El plato local que encontré fue trucha, y probé un poco de tallarin saltado. T.S. es un plato peruano icónico, comida china peruana. Si no tienes tanta curiosidad por la comida regional en Perú o llegaste tarde como yo, pruébalo. No te decepcionarás.

 

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A CHOCOLATE MISSION

– How many years does your business have?

– 12 years

– And why the store is so little?

It’s an often reaction Sarita observes in some clients. I think this kind of comments come from people who think succeed come as fast as you would like to. The family of Sarita De la Cruz began making cacao paste before she was born. So, cacao is in her culinary ADN. After finishing college and having some jobs, she and her partners decided to formalize the chocolate business related to her family for decades.

Every step, every goal reached, every penny invested implied hard work. But when you start a business strongly related to you, it´s not only work it becomes a mission. Bitter as some naive comments, sweet as victories and complex as the smell of fine cocoa. A complex duty, a sweet task, like chocolate. Can a business become a mission?

wp4 choco1

LA MISION CHOCOLATE

– ¿Cuántos años tiene tu negocio?

–  12 años

– ¿Y por qué la tienda es tan pequeña?

Es una reacción frecuente que Sarita observa en algunos clientes. Creo que este tipo de comentarios provienen de personas que piensan que el éxito llega tan rápido como a usted le gustaría. La familia de Sarita De la Cruz comenzó a hacer pasta de cacao antes de que ella naciera. Entonces, el cacao está en su ADN culinario. Después de terminar la universidad y tener algunos trabajos, ella y sus socios decidieron formalizar el negocio de chocolate relacionado con su familia durante décadas. Cada paso, cada meta alcanzada, cada céntimo invertido implicó un esfuerzo. Pero cuando comienzas un negocio fuertemente relacionado contigo, no solo es trabajo sino que se convierte en una misión. Amargo como algunos comentarios ingenuos, dulce como las victorias y complejo como el olor del cacao fino. Un complejo deber, una tarea dulce, como el chocolate. ¿Puede un negocio convertirse en una misión?

WP4 choco2

 

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First trout, then traveling

Every time I had lunch in my neighborhood I went to the same restaurant as often as possible. There were many similar ones: simple setting and affordable, actually some with a faster service. The service in my favorite neighborhood restaurant in Lince sometimes was too slow. Many people who came for the first time complain about the slow service. It was around 2007. We, frequent clients, didn’t say a word. Once a lady said to a new customer “It is often slow but it worth it”. Yes It did, most of the time. An exotic dish for me was trout, that river fish. I only knew that trouts live in those andean rivers, hours from the city. I thought, when will I be able to try trout in a mountain town, when? The time arrived in Cajamarca, almost 10 years after my travel wishes. Yes, It was worth it. Video in Celendin Cajamarca.

Primero la trucha, despues el viaje

Siempre que almorzaba en mi vecindario trataba de ir siempre al mismo lugar, por el año 2007. Habia muchos similares: ambiente sencillo, precio economico. El servicio en este pequeño restaurant de Lince, a veces era demasiado lento. Nosotros cliente frecuentes, nunca nos quejabamos ya sabiamos que asi era. Una clienta recien llegada pensaba y se quejaba en voz alta – ¿ Por que demoran tanto? – Asi es, vale la pena. Le contesto otra commensal. Si, casi siempre valio la pena.

Para mi un plato exotico era la trucha. Ese pez de rio, que normalmente vive en los lejanos rios de los andes. ¿Cuando comere trucha en una ciudad de la sierra? Me preguntaba. El dia llego en Celendin Cajamarca, mas de 10 años despues de mis sueños de empezar a viajar. Si, valio la pena.

 

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The traveler’s salad

The traveler’s salad

50gr., 100gr. almost every day, of vegetables. Do you always eat salad? The restaurant owner asked me. Yes, I include salad most of the time at home and when I go out. I think it started when I was about 15 y.o. Yes, I would like to try different foods but I am already use to eat vegetables. It´s not very common in Peru that people include salad often, I think it´s not really “perceived as food”. They help you not to gain weight and to digest better. So, I ate salad as entrance in Celendin. Main course was fried trout and I enjoyed the lunch. I left the city like at 6pm, very tired, after visiting 2 chocolate stores. Salad is actually part of a meal for my stomach, and finishing very tired after visiting what you dreamed is part of my happy memories.

LA ENSALADA DE VIAJEROS

50gr, 100gr. casi todos los días, de verduras. ¿Siempre comes ensalada? El dueño del restaurante me preguntó. Sí, incluyo ensalada la mayor parte del tiempo en casa y cuando salgo. Creo que comenzó cuando tenía unos 15 años. Sí, me gustaría probar diferentes alimentos, pero ya estoy acostumbrado a comer verduras. No es muy común en el Perú que la gente incluya ensalada a menudo, creo que no se “percibe como comida”. Los vegetales ayudan a no aumentar de peso y a digerir mejor. Entonces, comí ensalada como entrada en Celendin Cajamarca. El plato principal era trucha frita, disfruté el almuerzo. Salí de la ciudad como a las 6 pm, muy cansada, después de visitar 2 tiendas de chocolate. La ensalada es en realidad parte de una comida para mi estómago; y terminar muy cansada después de visitar lo que anhelaba es parte de mis recuerdos felices.

The traveler’s salad

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Who is a sibling in Celendin?

The slogan said: “working for our siblings from Celendin”. Who´s your sibling? The child of your parents? The kid you grew up with? A dear friend? Another passenger . . . like in the song of Iggy Pop? Is the word sibling related to the Quechua language?

My thoughts make me lost the notion of time. I also didn´t notice, that were other types or transportation available. The combi was taking too long, so I and took a “colectivo” (shared taxi). When I arrived in Celendin, I went first to Shilicolate shop. Sarita De la Cruz the manager received me as a cousin she has always heard about and has finally met. That was very close of the bus ad. After all, the creative was not far from my reality.

Video with the transport company slogan :

¿ Quien es un hermano o hermana en Celendin ?

El eslogan de la empresa decia: “al servicio de nuestros hermanos Shilicos (de Celendin)”¿ quien es tu hermano? ¿El hijo de tus padres? ¿el que crece contigo en tu hogar? ¿un amigo querido? ¿el otro pasajero . . . como en la cancion de Iggy Pop? ¿el uso de las palabras hermano, hermana viene del Quechua?

Mis pensamientos me hicieron perder la noción del tiempo. Tampoco me di cuenta, que había otros tipos de transporte disponibles. La combi tardaba demasiado, así que tome un colectivo (taxi compartido). Cuando llegué a Celendin, fui primero a la tienda Shilicolate. Sarita De la Cruz, la gerente, me recibió como a una prima de la que siempre había oído hablar y  finalmente había conocido. Eso estaba muy cerca del slogan de la empresa. Después de todo, el publicista no estaba lejos de mi realidad.

Video del Anuncio de la empresa de transporte:

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FIRST CACAO DREAM IN AYACUCHO

The finest chocolate is made from native cacao. In the last 20 years cultivating cacao has been slowly improving the lives of farmers in Peru. In our country there are 16 cities that produces cacao, Ayacucho is the 6th in terms of production. In the map bellow you will see 8 Peru regions where cacao is cultivated. In 2016 production was distributed as1: San Martín (42%), Junín (19%), Cusco (9%), Ucayali (8%), Huánuco (6%), Ayacucho (5%), Amazonas (4%) and Pasco (1%). Piura is also important for its fine cacao called “porcelain or white cacao”.

My grandfather was born in Ayacucho, but this is the first time I go there. In terms of weather the best season to visit Ayacucho and other mountain cities is from march until November, the non-raining season.  After reading the book “Ayacucho retrieval of the memory of its flavors” by Hector Efrain Rojas, I was surprised by the options we could try in the city. Rojas mention that some districts in La Mar province were doing local cacao festivals recently.

Cacao festivals in La Mar, Ayacucho are in march, and the harvest and production season is until June. Even with only 4 days to find our 5 must try food and drinks in Ayacucho, we decided to visit the district of Chungui in La Mar province. Chungui has 2 geographical areas: mountains and a jungle. I was very lucky to find Moner Lizana from the chocolate company Antarki SAC, he kindly connected me with 2 cacao producers. September is not cacao season in Chungui, but we find all the information we needed. It was a destine sign.

Ayacucho is a city with a beautiful natural patrimony and cultural heritage. As a culinary destination it has potential. The wild mushroom season is from January to march. February is the Carnival season. In this visit we find some (still) little edible wild mushrooms and try fresh Hearts of Palms  (palmito). Definitely the experience of visiting the cacao fields, open the cacao pod and try the raw beans was the best part of the trip.

Some brands distributed in Lima: Cafe Zuma (and chocolates) and ENI Chocolate. Winner of International Chocolate Awards for its chocolate made with Ayacucho cacao: NativCao, 2019 bronze medal. Qantu: silver medal 2017, gold medal 2018, by ICA, distributed in Canada. If you are curious about Peru tradicional food and you love chocolate, you have to experience Ayacucho.

Ay cacao bordes

 

zuma chocolate

Ay Nativcao2

ay qantu1

regiones 8 cacao

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TRADITIONAL DESSERTS : MILK AND MEMORIES

Culture is evolving everyday. Some traditions will last for decades even hundreds of years, while other are destine to disappear. It is the same with typical food and desserts. Felipa, my grandmother used to prepare Chancaquitas in the 50´s when my mother was a child, in Pisco city. She made them to sale them and get income that the family needed. My mother start to (really) learn to cook when she got married. Now my mother´s Chancaquitas do not have the texture they should have, my grandmother did not write recipes.

For this second Peru Food tour I made a pairing with the national spirit Pisco and traditional desserts prepared in Chincha. For the pairing we used smashed quince (machacado de membrillo, 4th in the picture), pumpkin jam (dulce de Calabaza alcayota, 5th in the picture) and peanut turron (2nd in the picture). I think they called it turron just for a random reason because it doesn´t look like a turron.  I will take more pictures of it in the future. We used 4 types of spirit Pisco produced in Chincha.

I used also Chancaquitas for this picture because I hear there are just a few people who still prepare it. In Chincha market I only found 2 places where to buy them. They are made from milk and sugar, and flavored with some cinnamon and cloves. They should have a cookies texture, be able to split into pieces. I am 38 years old and only now from time to time I write my moms recipes, and try to prepared them a few times. I hope Chancaquitas will not disappear.

In the Picture 1) Chancachitas  2) peanut turron 3) Sweet figs 4) smashed quince  5) alcayota pumpkin jam

FT2 desserts

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